Ups and downs and backs and forths: Week 4 on the PNT

Today is my 1 month anniversary since I started hiking the PNT! Happy one monthaversary to me! Time perception is an interesting thing on the trail. On one hand, this month breezed by me, allowing me little time to double take or absorb what I'm doing. For me, thru-hiking is a very stimulating activity. You go through so many experiences just in one day... to try and digest each day separately seems quite a challenge. Looking back on a week's worth of hiking, I find my memories blend together, and it becomes challenging to differentiate and organize what you recall. On the other hand, the first week of the trail seems to be an eternity away from where I am standing.

This week in particular has been quite strange and beautiful at the same time. A special week to say the least, since I've met 11 more PNT thru-hikers and made some lovely,  much needed connections. 

After Northport, me and Snowberry had plans to make a short pit-stop in Republic to ressuply, and hitch right through town to the other side of highway 20, essentially taking advantage of its strategic location (3 highway access points) skip the southern trail loop that goes around Republic. That would have cut off 50 miles for us. Part of Snowberry's main concern was the unavoidable bushwack on the alternate trail.To visualize this, I've taken a screen shot of the Guthook app, of this particular section:

Upon arrival in town though, plans changed, as they usually do. I felt we'd be losing out on some nice trail just to avoid a short bushwack. Snowberry felt differently. We came to a compromise to only hike the western half of the loop, basically eliminating the bushwack. We'd try to stay the night at a local family's house that was listed as trail angels in the guidebook. As we sat on the sidewalk, deliberating, a hiker, Bing, walked by and we started chatting. Freshly showered, his bright blue eyes shone with wildness and enthusiasm. He seemed full of sunshine, literally and otherwise. We made plans to meet for dinner at the Knotty Pine and continued onto the supermarket to do our ressuply. Low and behold, we run into another hiker, Hui. Almost a double triple crowner, Hui gave us some valuable info and perspective on things. We stood in the frozen food aisle, talking animatedly about the trail as town locals not-so-discreetly eves-dropped on our conversation, curious to know who the new weirdos in town were, no doubt. 

Dinner was nice. Finally,  me and Snowberry got to talk to other hikers and compare our experiences. One thing that was heartening was that Bing and Hui seemed just as fed up with the road walking as we did, and didn't judge us for skipping a lot of it. I started getting the impression that there is a general sense of humility on this trail. Because of its underdevelopment and ruggedness, it seems most hikers find themselves in the same boat, trying to navigate the trail in their own way. There isn't as much hubris amongst hikers as there is on other more established trails. No one judges anyone else on how many miles one averages. More than anything, I felt a sense of comrodary and understanding between the four of us as we crouched over the table, telling each other stories and listening intently to one another. 

After dinner, we made our way to Artie and Mike's home, about a mile out of town. The couple and their daughter were so welcoming and helpful, it felt a bit overwhelming. We showered, did laundry and pitched our tents on their lawn. We then spent a few hours getting to know this beautiful family before our eyes got heavy as hiker midnight set in, and we decided to hit the sack. 

The next day we rose early and ditched our heavy gear in the house, planning to slack pack the eastern part of the loop. Artie gave us a ride to the Ten Mile trail head before heading to work, and there we were, on the trail again with lighter packs and renewed enthusiasm. 

My enthusiasm, though, didn't last long, since the section seemed to consist mostly of forest road walking, and I found the whole day extremely boring. Despite being in a wilderness area, walking on roads frustrates me because it creates a big divide between your surroundings, and you. Even boring days, however, contain unexpected happenings and encounters. Mine was practically running into a big rattle snake. He was resting on the side of the road in the shade, and was extremely well camaflouged, blending well with the pine cones scattered around him. I was about 3 feet away when we startled each other, and he rose his neck and rattled his trail, essentially assuming an attack position. It surprised me so much, I froze for a few seconds, watching the snakes eyes fixed on mine. I then turn around and ran to find Snowberry. We walked slowly together around the trail, avoiding any other unnecessary friction with this funny and scary being. 

During the walk, Snowberry felt badly about my dissatisfaction, and we agreed to tackle the eastern first part of the loop as well. The next morning, we walked 6 more miles and hitched back into Republic. We stuffed ourselves with breakfast at the Knotty Pine (again), and poked around town. That evening, Tim Youngbluth, the author of the Pacific Northwest Trail Digest, just happened to be in town with his wife, Gale. Me, Snowberry and our wonderful trail angels all went out to eat at Freckles BBQ. It was a cool chance to talk to Tim about his experience on the trail and also throughout his writing process. Trails like these don't just consist of thru-hikers. There are many parties involved in establishing a trail and making it thrive. It was interesting to discover Tim's take on things. As we were walking out of the restaurant, two hikers, Dana and Jake, stroll in, and we briefly connect, expecting to see them later at the house.  

The next morning, Artie drove us back up to Sherman Pass, where we began our two day hike to highway 21. Dana started off with us initially, but was so fast, planning to hike the 50 mile loop in 2 days. A few minutes in, she disappeared up the mountain, maintaining a pace we couldn't dream to keep up with.

This section was much more scenic and beautiful. We passed Snow Peak Cabin, nestled below Snow Peak, we traversed through high desert and descended down a massive canyon. On our brief bushwack on the alternate route (which was quite manageable and quite exhilarating!) We ran into Eva, another PNT thru-hiker. It was fun to get to know her and camp with her. 

By the time we hitched into Republic,  we came back to a full house, and that night, Artie and Mike welcomed 9 hikers into their home. These people's kindness still blows my mind. They bought tons of ingredients and treated us to burgers, chips and salsa and ice cream. It was heaven! The next day, I spent a zero day with Honey Feet, Pancakes, Eva, Jake and Dana, Snowflake and Saucy, while Snowberry rose early and decided to get an early start walking towards Orroville (the official half-way point of the trail). I felt I had made the right decision to stay in town and be around good, happy people. I felt as though I needed more social interaction and leisurely activity. Sometimes I think to myself: "Am I a lazy hiker?" , since I often crave time off, or just feel as though I want to do other things with my time which are not easily done on a thru-hike (art, stillness, music, reflection, cooking). But then I am reminded again of the fact that each individual out here is on a different, unique journey. My task is to listen to my wants and needs and be confident in my decisions... a tall task on and off the trail if you ask me. 

This zero day, spent in this cute town, was the best one I've had. Haley, Artie and Mike's daughter, drove us to Swan Lake, where we swam and sun bathed. Then, in the evening, we went to the Republic Brewing Company to see a great concert. It seemed to me like the whole town showed up at the venue, and it quickly turned into a dance party. I even got a chance to get on stage and improvise some tubes with the musicians. Overall, I felt so full (literally from all the food I've been eating) and fulfilled (from all the goodness I've been absorbing). 

I've now spent my second zero day here in town, and it has been a well needed break for me. I am so extremely lucky to have run into all of these other hikers. It makes me feel less alone on this often isolated route. I've gained perspective on my journey and I've danced out all my pent up stress. It's time to head to Orrovile, and onto the Pasayten wilderness. I'm excited to get back a sense of continuity (since this week has been quite unsettling, what with all the town stops and back tracking) and find my hiking flow again. After all, this is why I'm out here, to hike my own hike. 

See you in a week (if I get internet).. for now: Indigo, signing out.