People in this world just trying to get by... Week 3 on the PNT

So here's the deal about the Pacific Northwest Trail: it is still in development. Although it has been designated by Congress as a national scenic trail, it seems to me that the Pacific Northwest Trail Association (PNTA) still struggles to get much leverage, and thereby funding and legitimacy, to effectively work on moving much of the route off roads (forest roads, paved roads or otherwise), and carve out more of an actual trail. Now, I see the difficulty in developing a trail in its infancy, and navigating through many parties that own or maintain land. I am aware that the PNTA must negotiate with the Forest Service,  National Parks, State Parks,  private land owners and others to move trails off roads, properly maintain trails, adequately sign them and so on. Huge trails like these take decades to form and I've come to appreciate how much work it requires.

Still, as a current PNT thru-hiker, I harbour some frustrations with the amount of bushwacking and road walking I must endure. (Some thruhikers find this aspect of the trail appealing, however). So me and Snowberry have decided to stop torturing ourselves and essentially bypass sections we find not to our liking. Now, some thru-hikers would say: "that's cheating!" And to this I would reply: Are there really any set rules to thru-hiking? The whole idea is to hike your own hike, based on the attitude you bring with you on trail...

So now that I've gotten this off my chest, let me start by saying that out of Bonners Ferry, Idaho, me, Suzanne and Snowberry decided to bypass the 5 mile a dangerous bushwack in the Selkirks. After consulting with the PNTA headquarters via phone, and talking to a local ranger, we realized that there was no alternate road or trail that could get us through the mountain range, so we were forced to skip around 50 miles, which was frustrating to say the least, but we all took it in stride. I'll just have to hike the Selkirks mountains some other time... 

Much to our luck, we had made a connection with a local lady in town, who agreed to drive us around 30 miles to Upper Priest Lake, where we'd resume our walk. This woman was lovely and sensitive and kind. She had lived in Bonners Ferry for 30 years and was very familiar and invested in the surrounding natural area. She shared with us her knowledge and life stories as we drove north. Upon our arrival, we stopped at a beachy area filled with tourists equipped with huge bright pink flamingo floaties. We took a dip and allowed ourselves to inhabit a more relaxed reality for a while.

Ms. L (let's call her), seemed to have a sense of spirit and hope for the world that transcended the boundaries of her town. She talked a lot about worldly issues, social, natural and otherwise, with a perspective that seemed to differ greatly from those around her. She talked about her local community, her Mennonite friends, and those with different political convictions. She harboured a lot of love for those that disagreed with her, and emphasized the things she admired about those with different mentalities, and the things they all ultimately shared in common. 

It occurred to me through meeting her that there are many people in America with extremely progressive ideas and lifestyles that call small-town USA their home. Unlike me, whose lived in a safe bubble surrounded by like-minded folks for a while, other individuals must work fiercely to stick to their truths in harsher environments. It makes me admire those that navigate their sense of self in the wide world of difference and struggle. 

Filled to the brim with fresh raspberries and snow peas from Ms. L's garden, we hiked 5 miles up the lake, only to stumble upon the most perfect camp site. Being so ahead of schedule, we chose to stop and pitch our tents.

The dream-like atmosphere of this day quickly faded as we rose and began our routine walking once again. The scenery was beautiful as we traversed through an ancient cedar forest. The mosquitos,  however, were absolutely everywhere. It was so bad, that Suzanne dubbed it 'Mosquitogeddan'. As we climbed uphill for hours, we were forced to navigate through overgrown thimbleberry, blow down and a narrow, muddy, slippery trail, all while getting eaten alive. It wasn't fun. In fact, it just could be the worst day so far on trail. 

The payoff, though, was that our climb eventually led us to the Shedroof Divide Trail. We pushed ourselves to get up to the ridge, where we knew we'd find a flat place to camp, and boy what a spot it was! The slight breeze kept the bugs away, and I witnessed a beautiful sunset, and an extremely impressive clear night sky, milky way and all. The awesome spectacle made me forget, if just for a moment, about my tired feet and itchy skin. 

The next town we hit was Metaline Falls. The guidebook describes it as being a hiker's paradise... In my hipster head, I imagined it being a lively small town,  with Main St. all decked out with cafes, twinkly lights, artsy shops and more. I let my imagination get the best of me though, since Metaline Falls ended up being one of those towns that seemed to be struggling a bit. Empty store windows, unfinished projects and people with big dreams but limited resources. A healthy dose of realism hit me as I witnessed the goings-on of this place. Still, Mary, the local trail angel took us in and let us camp in her lawn. It was nice talking to her and her family, all very generous and kind! Plus, I finally met the Brits there! It was a nice surprise encounter and I found myself giddy to socialize a bit with them, while I could! 

Sadly, our friend Suzanne chose to stop hiking the PNT, and her Dad drove to meet her at Metaline Falls, where they'd take a road trip together instead. Many factors make people quit the trail... Although me and Snowberry would have liked her to continue with us, we tried to practice acceptance and understaning as we said goodbye..

Currently I'm in Northport, staying with a beautiful couple that let us sleep in their 5th wheel, along with their two dogs and cat. They also seem to stick out as vibrant and creative people in a town that doesn't necessarily house people of the same sort. Still, Josh and Jami have each other and have cultivated a sense of joy and belonging here. Their garden is extremely inviting and their two dogs and cat are so precious. I'm tempted to ask if I could stick around them for a few months, but life continues... I made them a meal to show my gratitude (also they have a beautiful kitchen and I like to cook!) and we've shared some music and some laughs. This place has been quite magical to hang out in, but the hike must go on! I'll hold my experience in Northport very close to my heart.

Next stop, Republic, WA. 

For now, Indigo signing out!